Deluxe Station Diner

Deluxe Station Diner certainly succeeds when they claim to be, “not be your usual diner”.

Don and Daryl Levy, owners of the ever popular Deluxe Town Diner in Watertown, have opened a second location in Newton Center. Don told me, “They were inspired to bring together great food for good people.” They have done so in an incredible location as well.

When you walk in the late morning on a spring Saturday you are greeted with the same mass of people that crowd you in Watertown. There is a reason for this, people don’t crowd just because. They do so because it is worth it and a bottle neck doorway is a small price to pay for a good brunch. With a 45 minute wait, which I did not consider unreasonable for a weekend in the prime brunch hour, there are plenty of things to do to pass the time. The hostess will take your cell and call you when your table is ready, so your welcome to roam about the Newton Center shops or, if you have an almost 3-year-old, you can jump on the T and ride it out to Riverside and back at no fare cost. Entertainment at its best when your in preschool. The time flew by without a worry and we were soon seated in a large booth that easily accommodated the 5 of us.

The architecture at the Deluxe Station Diner is equivalent to the Watertown diner in that it is as distinct, but that is where any similarity ends. The Deluxe Station Diner immediately greets you with a warm and comfortable feeling. The music is a mix of jazz and classic pop. Families dominate the table population, but plenty of couples can be spotted at the bar and smaller tables scattered about. The décor evokes thoughts of a very 50s sci-fi feeling with antennas appearing out of many metal sculptures. There is a good deal of dark woodwork that softens the metal and leaves you intrigued in a relatively unique dining environment.

The diner could seem very small if it were not for the 18 foot high cathedral ceilings of this 1886 railroad station designed by H.H. Richardson. Completely remodeled this past summer to restore the building’s past character and add some whimsical flare, the diner is a solid blend of the old and new. Our original impression of sci-fi was validated when researching the inspiration behind the current design. The designers played off the late Victorian Period and the American Industrial Revolution. In particular, the 1901 Pan-American Exposition, held in Buffalo, was at the forefront of science and technology and the futuristic feel derives from these turn-of-the-century themes.

The hostess was kind and very good at appeasing large amounts of hungry people. She went as far as noticing us outside and coming to point out our table and its progress, while we were only a half hour into our wait. The owner can be readily seen by the hostess desk. Our waitress was nice, but slow. One would think it could be the brunch rush that slowed her, but honestly our food flew out piping hot and in only a few minutes. The operation of the restaurant was working well, she was just not strong at her job. It was not unacceptable just disappointing. Busing seemed to lag as well. Our table was wiped down well, yet two containers of old milk for coffee were left out and we lacked napkins and straws that other tables all had. We observed that tables sat for 5 plus minutes before they were turned over, not a good thing when the crowd outside wants to get in.

The breakfast menu is exactly the same to that in Watertown. The selection is tremendously wide. Deluxe specials include:: Hash and Eggs, Middle Eastern Platter, Salmon or Crab Cakes Benedict. There are Omelets and Breakfast Sandwiches of every kind and French Toast and Blitzes too.

Our dishes were prepared very well. Not overly complicated or fancy in anyway, just prepared properly which is not always the case in a rushed kitchen. Elizabeth ordered eggs over hard and they were fried really well, being hard but not dry. My veggie omelet was cooked light and fluffy without having soggy veggies with a nice crisp crust from the pan. All of our home fries were a two-bite size and seasoned lightly with kosher salt and cumin. The potatoes seemed like they were cut in house with skin on and not over fried at all. Todd won’t eat home fries and he almost cleaned his plate.

The morning burrito had a generous amount of avocado on a whole wheat wrap. The Deluxe Sour Cream Flapjacks were simply sensational, but of course that is the Deluxe’s signature item. They are just as tasty across the pike as in Newton. All dishes are served with 100% pure maple syrup, no real place claiming to serve breakfast would ever consider something else.

The pancake selection is marvelous and one of distinction. Beyond the sour cream there are Sweet Potato, Blue Cornmeal, Ployes with buckwheat and wheat flour with no eggs, milk or sugar, New York Potato Pancakes with crispy shredded potato, onions and spice, and Rhode Island Jonnycakes made from stone-ground whole flint cornmeal, wheat-free and low in fat.

The decaf coffee was really good. A non-coffee drinker who usually doctors her coffee with cream and sugar did not feel the need and enjoyed the brew. The caffeinated connoisseurs commented that they liked the wide mugs with a curly lip. The cups are available for purchase if you like them. All the coffee is organic and fair trade. I had a Vanilla NY Style Egg Cream out of curiosity. It was light and refreshing with seltzer, skim milk, and vanilla syrup. I would order that again in a heartbeat.

Last time Jill was here she had the Old Fashioned Oatmeal and it was over cooked and bland. Probably left to sit throughout the morning, she was disappointed with her visit. This time she was much happier with her Breakfast Burrito and her bite of Todd’s pancakes. She loved the pancakes so much she returned a few days later to have a breakfast date with a great book and two pancakes!

The Deluxe Station Diner’s beverage menu has full service coffee from espresso, cappuccinos, iced and everything in between. There are frappes, floats, specialty drinks such as a Lime Rickey, and natural sodas. Their herbal tea menu is extensive and steeped with fresh leaves at your table.

Deluxe’s lunch and dinner menu are just as extensive including a wide evening drink menu. The bar hops like a diner counter in the morning, but is said to be a popular scene for evening drinks. I will need to make a return visit to investigate the evening menu. That is if I don’t return too many times for brunch and tire of the place. I can see this being our new go-to location in the area for brunch.

New American Café

New England winters do not typically conjure thoughts of a lunch soaked in sunlight while you are toasty warm in an open, seemingly outdoor, space. Discovery of such a place has been made at the New American Café at the Museum of Fine Arts.

With the snow piled high outside and temperature in the single digits I sat down to lunch. Though it was technically inside, it is hard to remember that with a dramatically high ceiling in a large indoor courtyard and walls of glass allowing the bright mid-day light to pour in. This is al fresco dining in the winter for sure.

Since the new Art of the Americas wing recently opened, the crowds have been large. Therefore, the lunch rush does not begin at a typical noon hour. Be early or be prepared to wait. A long line usually forms and remains throughout the day. The aforementioned atmosphere is one reason, so is the menu.

Somehow a watermelon colored red fizzy drink was called for on this winter day. A Raspberry Lime Ricky would fit the bill well. Todd had a Harpoon IPA which was a beer pairing with his entrée. A definite benefit to the menu is the recommended pairings which are diverse and are an example of their selection of regional American wines and micro beers.

Our salad was local cider vinaigrette on field greens with pickled vegetables and candied pecans was tasty and well dressed. The pickled veggies were distinct and obviously done in house. The salad was certainly on the small side, even for an appetizer, at least in comparison to a Paparazzi salad which two plus people can share with ease.

Todd had the New England Farm Burger with aged Grafton Cheddar, house pickles, smoked bacon, and tobacco onions. He enjoyed the trio of sharp cheese, creamy mayo and spicy seasoning. The burger in concert with the freshness and local nature of the ingredients made it distinctive and something to return for.

I had a hand carved turkey Panini with Applewood smoked bacon, Boggy Meadow Swiss cheese, and apple-cranberry tapenade. The bread was perfectly tender on the inside and crispy on the outside which I love. The cheese was outstanding and perfect in company with the cranberry tapenade. The onions on the side were addicting with their balance of crunchy, sweet, and soft. I did not prefer the pickles. Ever so sour and homemade, Todd was happy to receive mine! They would be delightful if a serious pucker is what you desire.

I actually did not want dessert. Stop the presses now! Todd ordered one though, and asked for two spoons. He has been with me long enough to know me better then myself. A Black and White Banana Split Sundae was his superb selection. The one exception to that description was the brandied cherries. They had passed the point of drunk a long time ago and where drowned in brandy well past the point of enjoyment. Once Todd sacrificed himself and ate those, the pregnant lady was cleared to dive into the praline crunch, sweet cream, and caramelized bananas! I have visited once since this day and seriously thought about ordering one to-go as I was racing through the courtyard with a toddler needing to nap. It was just that good!

The menu claims to access northeast family farms as much as possible. It appears that most dishes contain at least one item that is local, holding true to their promise. Other items included: Butternut Squash Gratin, Seafood Pie, Braised Beef Short Ribs, and the Market Fish specialty of the day. The prices are what you would expect for the venue and menu with sandwiches and burgers from $12-$17 and entrees about $20 to $30.

The wait staff was fine, but mediocre. In a place were almost everything else was lovely, it is too bad their staff does not have higher standards placed upon them. No reason not to return though. They were not incompetent, just not considerate.

I will be back for sure. If not before, certainly when the wind begins to blow and snow flakes are invading New England once again.

Snappy Dog

Last night I had a mediocre meal at an acclaimed establishment downtown. This morning I found myself at my local hot dog food truck and simply enamored with the best hot dog ever. Considering that no beef is a rule here, you’re probably thinking “she ate a hot dog?” Rest assured, it was a turkey dog.

I know food trucks are all the rage right now. NY and LA seem to be teaming with them. I recently had a conversation with Chef Tyler Florence and he was detailing how the fall of the economy in 2008 left many talented chef’s without a traditional front to open their restaurants. It takes considerably less cash to open a food truck and allows for a profit in days with affordable food options for customers. I would hope this is the trend of fast food in this country.

Boston has a few gems I know of. On the Rose Kennedy Greenway there are six trucks there for the summer, with hopes for more next season. They all focus on an international flare and do what most trucks do by specializing in a limited menu done well. Snappy Dog in Hopkinton, MA is no exception.

Tucked away on Route 85 right behind Colella’s market, you find a red wooden food truck made by the chef’s Lisa and Teresa and a little help from others! It is typically open from April 1st to the Saturday before Thanksgiving. The women are vivacious and fun. They operate in a line format and cook to order so it is fast and fresh. The women’s spirit and energy is as good as the fare. When a moment in the line allowed, they were around to check in with us. The owners care and that alone is refreshing.

Their menu included both big and small hotdogs with beef and turkey options. There is a special of the day and plenty of homemade relishes. Divine little homemade desserts are delectable and sized right for a lunchtime snack. The prices are reasonable considering the quality.

My table is very happy with their selections, all diverse and all yummy. I am having the special of the day, The Slum Dog. It is a turkey dog with spicy cabbage and curry, topped with toasted coconut and fresh mango salsa. Simply outstanding! I am blown away with each bite at how sweet and sharp the flavors are. The fresh baked potato roll is a nice host for delivery of flavor from the Slum Dog which seems to tingle my taste buds long after my bite.

It is worth a quick stop by or a drive for lunch while the weather allows to have a seat at one of their outdoor tables.

The Oak Room

My husband and I really enjoy Saturday afternoon cocktails in The Oak Bar. They have a full bar menu, yet specialize in 1920 NYC style cocktails which are distinctive and expose your pallet to something refreshing from the normal bar menu. We like the bar mid-afternoon when the energy downtown is fabulous with shoppers milling about and tourists tired out and relaxing. You can often get a coveted seat along the windows and on the couch able to view the stunning bar decor and Copley Square outside. This is a wonderful way to take pleasure in a Saturday. Bring deep pockets though, 2 drinks will often run $30.

Enjoying the bar as much as we do, I have long been anticipating going to the Oak Room for dinner. The decor in the restaurant is very similar with its grand oak paneling. I know, you never would have guessed that! The energy in the dining room was flat at 6:30 on a Thursday. In the bar, you participate in the vibe. In the dining room the atmosphere is something akin to a diner during the early bird special hour. When you are enveloped in atmosphere, tranquil and exceptional or lively and loud, you know you are in a solid food establishment. In the Oak Room, that is completely missing. There are very kind and attentive staff, but that is not a sign of distinction, just a mandatory requisite.

As our meal began we had high hopes for what was to come. The bread was a sensational multi-grain with a sweet bite, very soft and piping hot from the oven. The accompanying roasted red pepper humus was spectacular with a very lively note that made it irresistible. There was not too much pepper in the humus, as there can be for my taste, which helped its soft finish. There was also a sampling of marinated olives, which were overly oily and had no heat to them like the waiter warned. As dinner began it was obvious The Oak Room was attempting fusion and trying to escape its reputation as a traditional establishment. This attempt simply failed on most fronts. It was unsuccessful because fusion is not fusion by giving the same old dish new service ware or take the same ingredients and place them in a new arrangement. It was also futile because The Oak Room itself simply breathes tradition and it would be very difficult to make the transition from traditional to modern successfully and still please your guests. Here the attempt at fusion simply took away from the experience I had come for.

As an appetizer I had the BLT Salad. Butter lettuce drenched in a flavorless vinaigrette. We are in the middle of the season for farm fresh vegetables and the tomatoes in this dish were not farm grown and had a bland and watery taste. (The irony is the best farmers market in Boston is directly outside the front door in Copley Square.) The salad was layered like a burger, with one piece of each element in order, nothing chopped into accessible bites. I can not remember the last time I did not finish the plate in front of me. After just three or four bites, I passed the plate along relieved of its mediocrity.

Todd had the tuna as an appetizer. It had an interesting texture with the soft tuna providing the salt that complemented the sweetness from the caramelized onions very well. There was no wow factor, but he was not as disappointed as I was with my selection. Keeping up with the fusion theme, the dish was served in a martini glass.

The entrees too were served on a plate with modern angles and curves. My crispy seared sea bass was well cooked, being tender and flaky. The problem was its complete lack of flavor. The bed of potatoes it sat on was much better then the actual fish. They were buttery, creamy, and well seasoned. The roasted fennel on the side actually possessed outstanding flavor and texture. The only memorable flavor I can recall when finishing was cilantro. Maybe the large puddle of water the whole dish sat in captured the flavor that was meant for my taste buds.

Todd’s New York Strip Steak was not a choice cut of meat at all. It was cooked well though. The greens that accompanied the steak were nice. He characterized the dish as fine and something you could find at any establishment.

The highlight of the meal came in Todd’s dessert selection which I tried my best to help him polish off, trying to ignore my dish. Good thing he does not mind my invading fork onto his plate! He had the Boston Cream Pie, which was very inaccurately named, being more of a savory cake concoction then the classic definition of a Boston Cream Pie. More fusion I presume. The dessert was yellow cake layered multiple times with sweet light cream and covered in lots of shaved white chocolate. A drizzle of chocolate was a lovely complement. The absolute highlight to this already stellar dish was the side cream and raspberries which played so well with the cake, chocolate, and filling.

The ice cream puff I selected was a blunder compared to Todd’s selection. My ice cream puff had a weak coffee flavored ice cream, already melting by the time it reached me and drizzled with homemade chocolate sauce. As much as the ice cream was forgettable, the chocolate sauce was notable and very yummy. The puff that encompassed it was completely devoid of any flavor and did not even provide flaky goodness as it was chewy. It was obviously frozen and mass produced prior to that day’s preparation. The flavors combination remind me of a Tiramisu turned wrong.

To finish we were given a martini glass of cotton candy, at least they are consistent in the modern fusion element. The candy was whimsical and brought a fun finish. I would have appreciated this more in other establishments, but it brought a smile to my face in a meal where there were not many smiles.

Though our meal was fine, it did not live up to its reputation. I found myself leaving disappointed and regretful The Oak Room was our selection for the evening. Cross it off my list of places I would return to. If you looking for something of similar caliber and stature, I would highly recommend Parker’s at the Omni Parker House Hotel. It has very similar ambiance and a classic New England menu where the flavors, taste, and texture of the cuisine live up to its reputation on a consistent basis. Ask for table #40 if you’re a Kennedy fan, that is where Jack proposed to Jackie. Famous for their invention of the Boston Cream Pie, Parker House Rolls, and Cod, you won’t be disappointed.

The Paramount!

We attempt to walk in the Paramount and find ourselves in line somewhere between the delicate balance of a sparkling summer day outside and a tile floor inside. The floor looks like it was installed around 1937 when this establishment first opened its doors. The clink of silverware and chatter of voices immediately greets you along with broad smiles from happy diners. The vibe is great! The gray of the walls reminds me of Number 9 Park, but nothing else does.

No sitting is allowed until you have ordered your food. This system has always been in place, assuring that everyone has a table when their food is ready. As the sign states: high volume, limited seats, and a delicate balance of people to tables. Somehow it works in such a small place.

Properly relished and maximized, the day starts slowly as any day off should. Your watch testifies it is after 1 in the afternoon, but it looks and feels more like 10 in the morning.

A cart squishes through an overly crowded line of patrons at the food counter. A very panicked mom runs around between tables trying to manage tight quarters. A woman behind me is tentative to move forward not liking the jam of tables, people carts, and the food line. This is a place for people who love a good crowd. The crowd is a significant part of the ambiance here.

The sounds of chopping and the heat from the grill greets you. Being intimate with an open kitchen is a definite bonus as you watch your meal cooked directly in front of you. I have never seen a cook tenderize a burger by punching it! On the back of the grill is a butter roller that butters bread as you quickly slap a slice across the mesh before the bread hits the grill. The fat in the butter sticks to the holes in the mesh roller and is refreshed as the roller spins.

There is a clean and clear menu in the form of an overhead sign. At first glance the menu looks limited. It is certainly environmentally conscious and scrumptious as well as fresh. They do fewer things more simply and better. Breakfast, burgers, and salad really encompass most of the menu. The pricing is reasonable. I find myself peeking to see what people order. How could I get anything besides pancakes? The question is what flavor: strawberry, blueberry, banana, apple cinnamon, or buttermilk chocolate chip.

The decision is made and we are both getting pancakes. Yes, we should try something else, but they look so amazing coming down the line! Good thing there is a long line of people, this way we have time to peruse and decide. Can't help but to wonder what table we will sit at.

The blueberry, strawberry, banana pancakes it is! While ordering I realized the line cook put blueberries in all three of my pancakes. Thinking they screwed up my all important order, I inquired. They looked at me and silently stated, Don’t mess with success. I soon realized all 3 pancakes had all three fruits and blueberries take the longest to cook. Silly me for intruding on success.

With a small cleaning job done by us we were ready to sit at the high top stainless steel table we found without a problem. They did have someone attempting to bus tables, but it was a hit and miss situation.

Before I even dive into my stack Todd is nodding with reassuring delight from across the table. The center of the stack is piping hot. There is a hit of cool whipped butter and powered sugar balances the tang of buttermilk. Not the best ever, but I find myself continuing to dive in fast. These pancakes are very alluring and yummy. My favorite part is the steaming temperature which makes them far too hot to bite into, but I do anyway.



We shared a vanilla milkshake to complement our pancakes. What should have been the first sip of our shake was really a scoop as it is was too thick to suck up. We eventually triumphed and though it was creamy and smooth it was missing major flavor with no wow factor. The straw was not quite long enough to reach the bottom and my nose is wearing the evidence. I tipped the decorative soda fountain glass to polish it off. The glass and last drop always help the indulgent factor.

The table behind me asked, 'Is it worth the wait?’. Only you can tell.
A sign hangs to mark the Best of Boston for Beacon Hill eateries yet again. Next to the sign is a pitcher of water with lemon and ice for those who are waiting. We noticed the prime spot, a front open window bench and table seating 6 friends chatting about last night.

Well worth the wait and a fun experience!

44 Charles Street - 617.720.1152 - www.paramountboston.com

My Mission

This is my first foray into a written account of finer culinary delights in the Boston area. I have been sharing my chronicles with friends and strangers on the street and thought I would offer my perspectives to a wider audience.

“Culinary delights” does not necessarily mean fine dining, rather fine places you will want to explore. Some establishments will have swank others with swagger, but I am in this for good food, plain and simple!

No Beef is an attitude of honesty about food and the atmosphere in which it is savored. The candid conversation will expose my experience as it really is. No Beef also has a literal meaning. I like our bovine friends very much as planet mates and milk providers, just not on my dinner plate.

Let the journey be scrumptious and long!