Deluxe Station Diner

Deluxe Station Diner certainly succeeds when they claim to be, “not be your usual diner”.

Don and Daryl Levy, owners of the ever popular Deluxe Town Diner in Watertown, have opened a second location in Newton Center. Don told me, “They were inspired to bring together great food for good people.” They have done so in an incredible location as well.

When you walk in the late morning on a spring Saturday you are greeted with the same mass of people that crowd you in Watertown. There is a reason for this, people don’t crowd just because. They do so because it is worth it and a bottle neck doorway is a small price to pay for a good brunch. With a 45 minute wait, which I did not consider unreasonable for a weekend in the prime brunch hour, there are plenty of things to do to pass the time. The hostess will take your cell and call you when your table is ready, so your welcome to roam about the Newton Center shops or, if you have an almost 3-year-old, you can jump on the T and ride it out to Riverside and back at no fare cost. Entertainment at its best when your in preschool. The time flew by without a worry and we were soon seated in a large booth that easily accommodated the 5 of us.

The architecture at the Deluxe Station Diner is equivalent to the Watertown diner in that it is as distinct, but that is where any similarity ends. The Deluxe Station Diner immediately greets you with a warm and comfortable feeling. The music is a mix of jazz and classic pop. Families dominate the table population, but plenty of couples can be spotted at the bar and smaller tables scattered about. The décor evokes thoughts of a very 50s sci-fi feeling with antennas appearing out of many metal sculptures. There is a good deal of dark woodwork that softens the metal and leaves you intrigued in a relatively unique dining environment.

The diner could seem very small if it were not for the 18 foot high cathedral ceilings of this 1886 railroad station designed by H.H. Richardson. Completely remodeled this past summer to restore the building’s past character and add some whimsical flare, the diner is a solid blend of the old and new. Our original impression of sci-fi was validated when researching the inspiration behind the current design. The designers played off the late Victorian Period and the American Industrial Revolution. In particular, the 1901 Pan-American Exposition, held in Buffalo, was at the forefront of science and technology and the futuristic feel derives from these turn-of-the-century themes.

The hostess was kind and very good at appeasing large amounts of hungry people. She went as far as noticing us outside and coming to point out our table and its progress, while we were only a half hour into our wait. The owner can be readily seen by the hostess desk. Our waitress was nice, but slow. One would think it could be the brunch rush that slowed her, but honestly our food flew out piping hot and in only a few minutes. The operation of the restaurant was working well, she was just not strong at her job. It was not unacceptable just disappointing. Busing seemed to lag as well. Our table was wiped down well, yet two containers of old milk for coffee were left out and we lacked napkins and straws that other tables all had. We observed that tables sat for 5 plus minutes before they were turned over, not a good thing when the crowd outside wants to get in.

The breakfast menu is exactly the same to that in Watertown. The selection is tremendously wide. Deluxe specials include:: Hash and Eggs, Middle Eastern Platter, Salmon or Crab Cakes Benedict. There are Omelets and Breakfast Sandwiches of every kind and French Toast and Blitzes too.

Our dishes were prepared very well. Not overly complicated or fancy in anyway, just prepared properly which is not always the case in a rushed kitchen. Elizabeth ordered eggs over hard and they were fried really well, being hard but not dry. My veggie omelet was cooked light and fluffy without having soggy veggies with a nice crisp crust from the pan. All of our home fries were a two-bite size and seasoned lightly with kosher salt and cumin. The potatoes seemed like they were cut in house with skin on and not over fried at all. Todd won’t eat home fries and he almost cleaned his plate.

The morning burrito had a generous amount of avocado on a whole wheat wrap. The Deluxe Sour Cream Flapjacks were simply sensational, but of course that is the Deluxe’s signature item. They are just as tasty across the pike as in Newton. All dishes are served with 100% pure maple syrup, no real place claiming to serve breakfast would ever consider something else.

The pancake selection is marvelous and one of distinction. Beyond the sour cream there are Sweet Potato, Blue Cornmeal, Ployes with buckwheat and wheat flour with no eggs, milk or sugar, New York Potato Pancakes with crispy shredded potato, onions and spice, and Rhode Island Jonnycakes made from stone-ground whole flint cornmeal, wheat-free and low in fat.

The decaf coffee was really good. A non-coffee drinker who usually doctors her coffee with cream and sugar did not feel the need and enjoyed the brew. The caffeinated connoisseurs commented that they liked the wide mugs with a curly lip. The cups are available for purchase if you like them. All the coffee is organic and fair trade. I had a Vanilla NY Style Egg Cream out of curiosity. It was light and refreshing with seltzer, skim milk, and vanilla syrup. I would order that again in a heartbeat.

Last time Jill was here she had the Old Fashioned Oatmeal and it was over cooked and bland. Probably left to sit throughout the morning, she was disappointed with her visit. This time she was much happier with her Breakfast Burrito and her bite of Todd’s pancakes. She loved the pancakes so much she returned a few days later to have a breakfast date with a great book and two pancakes!

The Deluxe Station Diner’s beverage menu has full service coffee from espresso, cappuccinos, iced and everything in between. There are frappes, floats, specialty drinks such as a Lime Rickey, and natural sodas. Their herbal tea menu is extensive and steeped with fresh leaves at your table.

Deluxe’s lunch and dinner menu are just as extensive including a wide evening drink menu. The bar hops like a diner counter in the morning, but is said to be a popular scene for evening drinks. I will need to make a return visit to investigate the evening menu. That is if I don’t return too many times for brunch and tire of the place. I can see this being our new go-to location in the area for brunch.